Flotilla – 5.3
Table of Contents
The Highlights 2
Flotilla 2
The Morning Briefing 2
Leaving Big Vathi 3
Spartakhori 4
Matt & Karen 5
How to eat mussels. 6
Day 3 – Wednesday
Now – what went on for the rest of the week – would take too many words to cover in detail – even assuming, I could remember the detail, timing and location – which I can’t!
It was not the driest holiday we had ever had – and I’m not talking about rain.
However – I still have the navigation chart for the South Ionian Islands (Ref G12- Imray Tetra) which we purchased when we got home – we didn’t steal theirs’s!
In fact, it’s still on the wall of my home office, with pins identifying places we berthed at – mostly overnight – but included bays we anchored in for a home-made lunch and things like, sailing right around the Island, very visible from the quay at Nidri and referred to by the locals as – Onassis’ Island – proper name Skorpios,
In fact, on Nidri quay there was a prominent life size statue of Aristotle – which he, allegedly paid for himself – no ego there then!
More of that later – when we visit there.
The map and pins – helped me reconstruct the itinerary and revived many memories – all pleasant, which I have distilled into something close to reality. So:
The Highlights
Flotilla
Day 2 Big Vathi
Toast and coffee for breakfast and then –
Morning Briefing
Weather Clear Sky’s
Max.Temp. 38C
Wind – SW -pm Force 4 – 6
Itinerary Final destination Spartakhori
Short trip if direct – round to the SE corner of the island.
Different mooring – all wooden jetties owned by the large beach restaurant that we have the choice to use – or an uphill walk to the nice village with more choice.
But today – we will extend the sail to get more sail time.
Heading north, back towards Nidri, in order to sail to and around Skorpios and we were given a brief information sheet:
Which I have found:
Skorpios
The island was purchased by the Greek shipping magnate, Aristotle Onassis, in 1963, for 3.5 m drachma. The equivalent cost today would be about $15,000.
Ari’ – as he was known to family and friends – then spent undisclosed millions on turning the barren island into a luxury private refuge –
With:
– Three residences
–
– new marina and harbour
– imported over – 200 different types of trees
-thousands of tons of sand
– a Helipad
– Purchased a nearby mountain for a water supply
Married Jackie Kennedy in 1968
He died in 1975 – his grand-daughter, Athina, inheriting the island.
N. B.
“The island now has 24 hour – armed security.
it is forbidden to land on the island or even
to leave a boat and wade in the shallows.
Please ensure that you follow the lead boat and stay in deep water at all times – you will still get a good view.”
We thought it sounded quite exciting!
Leaving Big Vathi
Usual radio checks and an easy exit out of the large harbour.
Route – virtually straight north – in training we had often came back to Nidri from the south, so it was quite familiar.
So – final destination Spartakhori but via Skorpios.
When we get close to Nidri – you can’t miss Skorpios – it would have had a central outcrop of tall cliffs – if it wasn’t for the fact that a large part of the top had been shaved off for the heliport – looked like a giant had taken a huge knife and just sliced it off.
Approaching- we get radio instructions – with plenty of time – ‘lower sails and engines on’.
We obviously needed to motor around the island to keep control – under sail would have been a big ask for some/most of us.
Keeping a keen eye on the lead boat we got into an ordered line and
Circled the whole island anti-clockwise – taking care to not get too close.
Good views of the marina and open harbour and glimpses of the extravagant residences – but no signs of life at all – including the armed guards – for which we were thankful.
Just the one circuit – Then, when in open water, we get a mainsail up and engines off – back to sailing. We turn back towards Meganisi and a berth at Spartakhori.
Again – all – ‘line of sight – nice to sail past Nidri and the Nielsen base – from the water – must be getting more comfortable under sail.
Spartakhori
Watching for landmarks and find the entrance to Spartakhori marina – we radio to come in – OK straight in and plenty of space and an easy mooring on a wooden jetty – helped by the crew.
What’s next? Oh. Yeah – Happy Hour!
A well-earned cold beer for me and a dry white for Jean – with backups and a bowl of fresh pistachios (well, fresh enough)
Another day – not only survived – but enjoyed.
Examine our surroundings -four long parallel wooden jetties – all leading to a stoney beach and then a flat sandy area. -with a large restaurant building with inside tables – quite a number of tables set out on the sand all covered with straw roofing.
There are also places in the village on top – which is a steep walk up a lot of steps. So – see what we feel like later.
For now – just chill!
Matt & Karen
Realised we were moored only a couple of boats away from Matt and
Karen and a couple of shouts – we agree to join them – took our own wine – didn’t need it
That’s where we discovered the Karen G&Ts – years of experience in the galley – and introduced us to Tanqueray Gin and Fever View Tonic.
Both of us – sold on them, for life – as long as the sun is out.
Usual pleasant conversation – they are thinking about retirement – the unsocial hours were getting more difficult and they can’t always get the same shifts.
Anything planned for dinner? No – us neither – and nobody fancies the vertical walk to the town – and coming down later – even less. Plenty of room on the beach and still a warm evening – that’ll do us.
Finish our drinks and back for a freshen up and half an hour later sat at a table for four close to the restaurant.
No printed menu. We have all seen restaurants whose menus are actually a collection of photos of what the dish looked like – on the one occasion when somebody got it right!
Not his time – we are asked to walk to the entrance of the restaurant – and into the foyer and presented the refrigerated display of what is available today. All delivered today, some only an hour ago – yeah right!
Lot of sea food – but also some cold meats, interesting salads, and vegetables.
I actually went for the mussels – served in the shell with olive oil
and crispy bread.
I can vouch for them being fresh because they were delicious, melt in the mouth. As good as anything I have had in some of the best places-for mussels – Brussels and Ostend – I would contend.
A Tip: I discovered, by observation, the cool way to eat mussels in their shells.
How to eat mussels.
Pick a big shell first and use a fork to get the mussel out – keep the empty shell as a utensil for plucking other mussels out of their shells like little pincers. Super cool!
The others – just as impressed with the food- and – with a bottle of wine – cost about £25 – not just each – but all together – and a large part of that was the wine.
All managed to get back to the boats without incident – decided that the offered nightcaps were not a good idea.
All safely in bed and – strangely enough- slept like a log.
Must be the fresh air!
.